Warranties are offered by the manufacturer and will be honored by the manufacturer. Buyer is responsible for return shipping costs and insurance. Buyer understands that the product will be repaired or replaced at seller's discretion, and be given a reasonable amount of time. RETURNS: If the item stated as brand new is found defective on arrival or incorrect item was shipped. MasterCard and E-Check on Illinois resident adds 8% sales tax. Please Contact Us for More Information and Prices! Email: PAYMENT: We accept VISA. more Falling into Lead Screw and Dovetail Easy to Lock Position with Thumb Screw Crank Handle of Lower Base will Not Touch the Work Table During Rotation We Also Have Other 2-Way Cross Slide Vises Available at My Ebay Store. 3" Jaw Width 3" Jaw Opening 1" Jaw Depth Connecting Seat Prevents Chips from. So I dont know if thats enough quality for you, but the onlyu thing that breaks for us are the handles and thats becasue the bolts fall off and the students dont put them back on, they just leave them on the floor.SHARS 2 WAY COMPOUND VISE W/ HANDLE 3 IN WIDE NEW 202-1601. Grainger sells a different one, now, but it looks heavy enough. (another way of avoiding the whole reclamping thing. We dont have to clamp it down for 3/8 and smaller holes, becasue the bits would break before the vise moves. It is so heavy that we only move it if we have to. We use it exactly for what your wanting to do with it. If we bought a $5000 dollar vise, it would be riuned faster because someone would weld it into a sculpture as a base or something.
#Drill press vise x y full
I have it in a classroom full of tool abusers (sculpture I students should be the tool industry testing system) It stayed in one piece for 4 semesters.
Grainger sells a (very heavy) dayton branded crosslide vise. I'll try to answer this from an sculptors perspective.
Just trying to find the best solution here. I have always wondered how the regular (NON-cross-slide) drill press vises work, as you can't always just clamp your piece in the vise, and have your "punched hole" positioned directly under the drill bit, without having to unbolt the vise, and move it over a little. Not sure why some think I'm trying to mill with this thing? I don't even own a single end mill anyway. I am very well aware that a drill press is not to be used as a milling machine. I liked the idea of being able to clamp my workpiece, and then move it over on x-y axis, to position it right where I need it, for DRILLING PURPOSES ONLY. I'm just trying to decide on what to do for a drill press vise. I also wanted to hear from those who have experience with these devices.
Maybe a mid priced quality vise does not exist, and that is fine. No offense meant to anyone, but when someone comes right out and mis-interprets my post, I do like to make things/intentions clear. You have only been helpful in this thread.Įgpace made a comment, which mis-interpreted my post, and I was trying to clear that up. Nope, I'd NEVER recommend a crosslide vise when there are crosslide tables to be had. Worked great, table has adequate accuracy. I've several times drilled a layout of holes just from the dial calibrations by table movements. I just used a sine table on top of mine tonight. The t-slots are a good place for the drill to run out into, if that fits with the hold-downs. I can put dang near anything I want on it, and can still clamp a vise on there, and point it in any direction I want. My crosslide table, $70 from J & L back when they had a local store, has two t-slots, and is about 6 x 12. * If you ever need to drill a hole at an angle to a surface, you are SOL, a tilting vise won't fit in them. * it has to be thick enough to clamp by the sides I have yet to see a crosslide vise I could afford that was worth a crap.
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